“This look is an elevated version of the typical Helmut Lang girl. The skin is very fresh, flushed and sporty, with a cherry lip,” Hannah Murray for NARS Cosmetics.
On the skin, Murray used NARSskin Optimal Brightening Concentrate, NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream, Radiant Creamy Concealer, and Loose Powder. For the cheeks she used a combination of Golshan Satin Lip Pencil and Fire Down Below Lipstick. She applied Triple X Lip Gloss on the eyes and groomed brows with Oural Brow Gel. Lastly, she applied Het Loo Satin Lip Pencil and Golshan Satin Lip Pencil on the lips.
Sometimes the inspiration for a makeup look is crystal clear, as was the case for Sally LaPointe’s Spring 2014 collection. “Inspiration for the collection came from a board that Sally covered with fresh flowers from a corner deli,” key makeup artist Kabuki (for MAC Cosmetics) told me backstage. Sally showed him photos as the flowers began to dry and so the makeup had to mimic the “transition, fragility, and impermanence.”
The skin is a blend of Studio Sculpt Foundation for coverage and Face and Body, for dewy texture, Prep + Prime Power for a matte finish on the sides of the nose and forehead. The eyes were given a rusty color using Brun and Copperplate. Light Peach Color Corrector was placed under the eyes and a light flesh tone eye pencil on the waterline to brighten the eye. A light sweep of Love Joy Mineralize Blush was placed on the crease of the eye lid to echo the fading petals of a rose. He applied a slier of black liquid eyeliner layered with clear gloss to mimic the shiny cellophane of deli flowers. On the brows, he partially concealed them (harking back to the transition theme) and the lips were given a soft 18th century pin look.
Over in hair, Danilo created looks using six different wigs (going from dark to light with a mix of red and auburn). They removed the darkness typically associated with Sally’s collections but still wanted it to be a little goth. The wigs were all waist length and flat ironed with T3 flat irons. He started off by applying a bit of leave in conditioner by Pantene (his number one tip for when you want to wear a wig, you might as well protect your hair while it’s under there!). He then applied a bit of gel along the hairline. The model’s hair was then clicked back into a ponytail, braided, and placed under the wig. He applied Pantene’s Keragloss to give the hair shine and movement like someone’s real hair would and he topped it all off with hairspray.
“The simplicity is really beautiful,” Danilo told me of the look overall.
Backstage at Creatures of the Wind, stylist Odile Gilbert created a chic, be achy look on behalf using all Kérastase Paris products
To begin, she applied Mousse Bouffante on damp hair apply and blow dried. Next she curled random top sections with a 1” barrel curling iron, and twisted pieces as she went alone. Dry hair was sprayed pretty liberally with Powder Bluff for a matte texture and sprayed with Laque Dentelle Hairspray to set the look.
A small braid was created at the base of the head, underneath the hair, then coil and pinned against the head to serve as a pin anchor. A small piece of hair was then taken from the right side of the head right behind the ear, twisted and then wrapped around the loose lengths to create a ponytail and pinned into place. The look was finished with more Powder Bluff and Laque Dentelle to hold the look.
For makeup, NARS’ James Boehmer (NARS Director of Global Artistry) keyed the look.
“The real statement of the makeup look is the satin textured orange lip. It contrasts the color and finish of the opalescent-textured eye, and also references the era of the artist Eugene von Bruenchenhein, which was a source of inspiration for Shane and Chris. We loved the idea of translating this into the beauty look as well.”
On the face, he used Radiant Cream Compact Foundation and Stick Concealer. For eyes, Iceland Duo Eyeshadow and finished off the lips using Red Square Velvet Matte Lip Pencil and Timanfaya Satin Lip Pencil. The latter is new for Spring 2014 so if you’re looking to recreate the look now, try Heat Wave Lipstick with Triple X Lip Gloss.
“We wanted the nail to mimic the gorgeous organza fabrics seen throughout Tadashi’s collection,” said Katie Jane Hughes, butter LONDON Global Colour Ambassador. “butter LONDON Nail Lacquer in Hen Party and the Matte Finish Topcoat really transformed the nail to give this glistening, textured effect.”
Inspired by liberation and empowerment, the collection allows women to assert confidence with femininity as illustrated through soft, delicate materials. For nails, Katie used butter LONDON Nail Lacquer in Yummy Mummy with butter LONDON Nail Lacquer in Hen Party layered on top. Katie completed the look with the butter LONDON Matte Finish Shine Free Topcoat.
Another season of fashion week is upon us and as usual, I’m here to help give you the beauty breakdown. While I am taking it easy on the backstage hustlin’ I KNEW I had to share this how-to when I read the description of the look as “A modern, tomboy ‘do (think uptown glamour meets Run DMC)” Also, looks like the wet look we’ve seen walk down the fall 2013 runways isn’t going anywhere, friends!
Word.
The hair inspiration : NYC, 1980s. The opulence and energy of the city that never sleeps. The uptown girl and her designer excess clashing with the grit of the subway graffiti in the New York underground. O&M’s Creative Director Janelle Chaplin wanted to create a look that complimented the designer’s collection that showcased vivid colors and bold prints. The resulting style is cool and understated!
To get the look, start off by prepping dry hair with a generous amount of O&M Rootalicious Root Lift Spray throughout the roots to ends. Blow dry with a round brush, pulling hair backwards from the hairline. At the top of the head, tease hair by backcombing gently to give extra volume and then smooth over with a flat brush.
Next, using a mixture of O&M Style Guru Styling Cream and O&M Frizzy Logic Shine Serum, slick back the sides of the hair from the ear to the top of the head to give a “wet look” (Stylist tip: you should look like you’ve stolen your boyfriend’s products to create the look). The look was finished off with O&M Original Queenie Firm Hold Hairspray to keep the look in place and rake fingers gently through hair to ensure the style is modern and undone.